Thursday, January 27, 2011

Navy Maxi Skirt - Colette Patterns Palette Challenge

This is my second garment for the Colette Patterns Palette Challenge but I haven't taken photos of the first yet. I made up this skirt yesterday afternoon including drafting the pattern and sewing it all up and then wore it out last night. It is incredibly comfortable and perfect for the weather that we are having here in Sydney. It should also transition really well into both Autumn and Spring. I made the skirt up in a navy cotton voile from the Lisa Ho range at 'The Fabric Store' which has a lovely soft hand and breathes really well. I self-lined the skirt and treated both layers as one at the side seams and the waistband but hemmed them separately with the lining being hemmed 2.5cm shorter then the outer fabric.

Front, Side and Back

The Skirt was based off BurdaStyle 02/2010 103A. But I ended up not having enough fabric to make anything close to a full circle skirt so I figured I was just draft myself a pattern instead.

BurdaStyle 02/2010 103A

I really like the result despite it being quite different from the original inspiration. Here are some detail shots.

Back Box Pleat

Side zipper and contrasting button

Front outward facing pleat

Outward facing pleat on non-zip side

Rolled Hem on my overlocker

Button Tab

The Skirt on me (I'm still trying to get the timer shots on my camera working well):

This pattern is so simple I drafted this pattern directly onto the material using two measurements: waist and length from waist to ankle as shown in the diagram below.
Measurement Points

I folded my material in half and then in half again in order to get the skirt as wide as possible at the bottom and used the proportions below to draft the skirt. 
I unfortunately forgot to take photos of the construction process. To construct I basted the two fronts and the two backs together. Used my serger to do a rolled hem on the bottom of each piece separately, hemming the lining of both front and back 2.5cm shorter than the fashion fabric. Serged the side seams and inserted the side zipper. Basted down the pleats and attached the interfaced waistband. Sewed a buttonhole on the extended flap and attached a button.

The result is very different from my usual wardrobe but I'm trying to branch out and am discovering that if the proportions are right even really short people like me can wear long skirts. 

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